MUSTANG

Nepal (Introduction)

Nepal is a country of great contrasts - Himalayan peaks such as Everest and Annapurna, Kathmandu with its colorful bazaars and hundreds of temples, and friendly and hospitable inhabitants and situated between India and China.

Nepal is the birth place of Lord Buddha and the famed Gorkha Warriors. Nepal is also the land of Himalayas and has eight of the ten highest mountains in the World, including the highest mountain of all, Mt. Everest, the top of the world.

From the highest mountains in the world to plains of the Terai, from the thick jungles to historical cities and beautiful villages, from the excitement of white water rafting to the thrill of a jungle safari, Nepal has it all.

About Mustang

Population 26,000. Square Kms 2000 People : Lo-wa Capital: Lo Manthang (about 180 houses)

Mustang distrct is located within north-central Nepal, north of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri Ranges at altitudes of between 11,000 and 13,000 feet. Mustang is a windy, arid, high altitude desert. Chinese-occupied Tibet surrounds it on three sides.

Until 1991, this area was, forbidden, isolated and closed to the outside world and this area was totally off-limits to foreigners until 1994. Currently, to visit Mustang, participants must agree to certain ecological guidelines necessary to ensure that the unique sights, culture, and beauty of Mustang are respected and preserved.

Mustang is a semi-independent kingdom. The name “Mustang” is derived from the Tibetan word “Manthang” meaning, “Plain of Aspiration”.

Ever since this forbidden land was opened up to the outside world, a growing number of foreign trekkers are heading towards Mustang to watch the mysterious civilization with their own eyes.

Upper Mustang is the restricted northern part of Nepal's Mustang District. It consists of seven Village Development Committees (Nepal's smallest democratic units) with 31 settlements. The District administrative headquarters are located at Jomsom.

About Restricted Upper Mustang Size of restricted area: 2350 Sq.Km Population : About 6100 people in 7 VDC and 31 settlements.

Royal Family Jigme Parbal Bista, is the 25th Raja of the Kingdom of Mustang, and he is one who married with the charming Queen of Mustang, the daughter of Ladakh King.

Every year, the King of Mustang emerges from his walled capital of Lo Manthang and rides for three days south to an airfield in northern Nepal for an hour's flight to Kathmandu. He is one of several local rulers who were allowed to keep their titles and limited autonomy by King Prithvi Narayan Shah, the founder of modern Nepal who unified the country in the late 18th century.

King Jigme is usually busy supervising the harvesting of barley, wheat, mustard crops, taking animals to pasture, settling local disputes, granting audience to visitors and gracing local festivals with his wife, the Rani.

King Jigme is also worried about the high fortifications that surround his capital of Lo Manthang. He takes a walk around the walls every day, and despite attempts by the UMCDP, the King and the police, villagers continue to break down the historic ramparts to take a shortcut to their barley fields.

The Land and Economy

Mustang was so different, isolated, and untouched, it captured a sense of travel back in time. The absence of other trekkers and even the low population of local people created a feeling of undisturbed serenity existing in spite of pressures to change. The fabled, long forbidden Kingdom of Mustang awaits those interested in exploring the high altitude trails and extreme deserts of this remote part of the world.

Mustang, a tiny thumb of Nepal that juts out into the Tibetan plateau, was out-of-bounds for outsiders for centuries. It is only now being opened up to international tourism. Mustang is to the international tourism circuit, what Antarctica is for naturalists. With its pre-Buddhist Bon Po culture, its dry and starkly rugged vistas, Mustang is even more exotic than Tibet.

Learning from its past mistakes in opening up fragile mountain areas to tourism too quickly, the government in Kathmandu is trying out a unique experiment in limited, high-value tourism for Mustang. Mustang's remoteness -- it lies at an altitude of 4,000 meters on the arid plateau beyond the Himalayan mountains -- has kept the region and its Tibetan Buddhist culture frozen in time.

The Upper Mustang Conservation and Development Project (UMCDP) is in charge of the effort. The theory is that fewer, richer tourists will have a smaller ecological and cultural footprint. Money from tourism will be spent on preserving the local culture and the environment. But while limited tourism may have limited damage to the environment, the effect on the culture may not be as benign.

"We provided the locals with plastic sheets to cover the priceless murals in the Gompas (monasteries) but they used them as roofing for their houses," laments a UMCDP field-worker. The Abbot of Chyodi Gompa in Mustang agrees: "Sensitizing our people to the need to conserve our heritage has proved a challenge."

Long exposure to cold and indoor pollution from stove fires has resulted in a high mortality rate among children, primarily from respiratory infections. During the harsh winters, when the temperature falls below 20 degrees Celsius, there are many patients cause by this problem among old people and children inside their homes.

Before trade with Tibet was disrupted, all of the salt and wool on the mighty Kali Gandaki River would pass through the area, bringing prosperity to Lo Manthang. Today wealth is measured in land, horses and social standing.

Before the closure of the border, winter was the time for trade with Tibet. Nowadays, the greater part of Upper Mustang's villagers trek south after the October harvest and spend the cold months earning money in Pokhara (Nepal), Kathmandu (Nepal) and Dimapur (Nagaland, N.E India), Shillong (Meghalaya N.E. India). Tinsukia (Assam, NE India), Gorakhpur (UP India) etc.

Livestock is the most important source of cash income. In the villages, Cattle is kept for milk, meat and fuel. Large herds of goats and sheep are driven south, like Pokhara and Kathmandu for sale at the time of September and October (during Hindu festival Dassai).

Dzo (a crossbreed of yak and cow) plough the fields. Horses and mules carry people and loads. On the pasture lands at the rim of the Tibetan Plateau, nomads families tend goats, sheep and still Higher up yaks all year long.

Barley, buckwheat, peas, and potatoes are the crops, which they produce and in this dry climate, agriculture is impossible without irrigation. Women, men, and children work together on the fields. The seasons are marked by festivals.

Culture

Mustang is a kingdom within Nepal kingdom. Politically it is a part of Nepal; culturally, Mustang is Tibetan. Here you find some of Nepal's oldest, most unique Buddhist monasteries and the site of the earliest known human habitation in Nepal, dating back 800 years. After the 1959 Chinese invasion of Tibet, Mustang remained one of the only regions where Tibetan culture continued intact. Indeed, in language, dress, culture, diet, architecture, and even its feudal economy, Mustang is much more like traditional Tibet than any other area of the former Tibetan empire.

Visiting Mustang is unlike trekking in any other part of Nepal. The similarities to Tibet are supported by the language everyone speaks, the songs people sing at night, the terrain, the plants and animals, and the local beer (Chang) even the Chinese beer they sipped and enjoy in the little inns.

A household usually spans several generations, and children are cared by everyone. Marriage of one woman with two or more brothers, to avoid the splitting of the family's farmland, is still in practice. A husband may take a second wife if the first one proves infertile. But like all traditional ways, these are changing, too, under the influence of outside culture and values.

The remains of the dead are cut up by funeral workers at dawn to feed vultures, in the belief that these birds take the spirits to heaven.

The Buddhist society of Upper Mustang is divided into groups comparable to the castes of Hindu culture. The occupational castes, regarded as the lowest, comprise the Ghara, Shemba, and Emeta (blacksmiths, butchers, and musicians respectively).

The highland nomads, called Dokpa, take an outsider's position of a slightly higher status. The middle classes consist of Phalwa, who now often prefer to call themselves Gurung. The Kudak, who have adopted the Nepali name Bista for their clan, make up the nobility and royal family of Lo Tsho Dhun.

Religion and Festivals

Religion plays a central role in the life of Upper Mustang's people. Two Buddhist sects, the Kargyupa and Sakyapa are dominant in upper Mustang.

Festivals like Losar (Tibetan New Year, Feb), Saga Lug ka (rites for timely rains and a good harvest, Feb/Mar) or Dukchu (monk's dance and prayers for prosperous next year, Nov/Dec) structure the passing seasons.

On various occasions, Lamas (monks) are called to perform rites in individual houses. The costume and mask dances of the famous three days Tenji festival take place in front of the king's Palace in April/May, and on a more modest scale inside Choden Gompa in May/June. The are meant to bring prosperity to Lo Tsho Dhun and the entire world.

Most Gompas in upper Mustang belongs to the Ngor subsect of Sakya Buddhism. These living monasteries, some of which are attached to caves, harbour great treasures of religious art.

Presently, there is only one monastic School in upper Mustang. This Great Compassion Sakyapa Monastic School, Lo Manthang was founded in 1994. Now forty-five young monks study Buddhist teachings and rites, as well as untraditional subjects like science or English.

Opens to Tourists

Only in 1992 did the Nepal government allowed the first groups sheets to cover the priceless murals to enter Mustang. The government only allows a quota of 1,000 tourists to visit Mustang every year.

Mustang is divided into two parts, Upper Mustang and Lower Mustang. To go to the Lower Mustang, the foreigners do not need to pay except the ACA (Annapurna Conservation Area entry fee is Rs. 1000/- (NC) or about USD15 per person once) directly benefits ACAP's activities.

While each westerner must pay a trekking fee for upper Mustang, costing US $700 for the first 10 days and $70 for each additional day for person to spend in Upper Mustang.

A total of 400 westerners are allowed to enter Mustang per year, and each group must be accompanied by a Liaison Officer whose outfitting and all expenses are paid for by the group in addition to the special permit fee.

Therefore, the special permit and Liaison Officer expenses result in a more expensive trek cost per day than other treks.

An agreement with the UMCDP stipulates that 60 per cent of the tourism fees should go into local projects, but so far only 30 per cent has been spent locally.

Perhaps it is inevitable that with tourism the rest of the world will not be far behind. Already there are signs that the outside world is at Lo Manthang's gates.

A videotape machine run on a generator provides daily screenings of Hindi and Hollywood movies. Tourism also brings the glint of consumer goods and has monetized this pastoral land which lived for centuries on an elaborate barter trade between India, Nepal and the Tibetan plateau, a four-hour horse-ride to the north of Lo Manthang.

And the limited tourism may not be benefiting the locals as much as the UMCDP would like to see. To protect the local environment and culture, almost all the food and fuel tourists need on the trek is brought in from the outside and they sleep in tents. This means the foreigners spend almost nothing locally.

In the long run, tourism cannot be the answer for the development of the remote mountain region. But a cash-strapped government in Kathmandu just does not have the money, and is banking on limited, high-value tourism for opening Mustang.

VISAS

If you are a foreigner except Indian, you can obtain your Nepal visa up to six months before your arrival, or you can get it when you arrive in Kathmandu at the airport. All you need to do for now is apply for a new passport if yours has expired, and obtain 4 passport size photos for visas, Trek Permit, etc.

MUSTANG TREK

For those of new to trekking will have a wonderful experience in store. Trekking is walking, generally on good trails, usually up and down (sometimes 3,000 feet a day), carrying only a day- pack, through magnificent scenery. The day starts early, and often the bulk of the day's mileage is covered in morning hours.

The Kali Gandaki river has carved the deepest river canyon in the world between Dhaulagiri (26,800') and Annapurna (26,545'). Mustang, the former Buddhist Kingdom of Lo, is one of many petty kingdoms that used to extend along the upper Kali Gandaki. Like a geographic thumb jutting into Tibet, Mustang encompasses the entire upper drainage of the Kali Gandaki.

Set amidst the majestic scenery of the Tibetan Plateau are ancient forts, walled medieval villages and monasteries rich with Buddhist art. Surrounded by Tibet on three sides, Mustang is an enclave of traditional Tibetan culture untouched by the Chinese occupation. Despite their isolation, the people of Mustang are worldly, well-traveled and resourceful. Essentially Tibetans, they are skillful traders, travelers and merchants and are by no means a primitive tribe that must be protected from outside influence. Lo, or Mustang, maintained its status as a separate principality with a Raja until 1951 when it was incorporated into Nepal.

The most popular and most-traveled treks in Nepal go via Namche Bazaar toward Everest base camp, or to the Annapurna region farther west.

The trek to Mustang is through an almost treeless barren landscape. Strong winds generally howl across the area in the afternoon, generally subsiding at night. Being in the rain shadow of the Himalaya. Mustang has much less rain than the rest of Nepal although the skies are often cloudy during the monsoon and rain sometimes does occur. Villages are several hours apart and appear in the distance almost as mirages. After the crops are planted, they are green oases in the desert-like landscape of endless expanses of yellow and gray rolling hills eroded by wind.

The trekking tradition began with mountaineering expeditions, when Nepal first opened its borders to climbers in 1950. Climber after climber would return from the expedition with as much enthusiasm for the "approach march" as for the peak itself. The first advertised treks, in the early 1960's, were based on routes and logistics developed by Sherpas for mountaineering expeditions, and were strongly influenced by the British ways. Today's trekker enjoys an experience remarkably similar to that of world class climbers', except that it stops at the foot of the peak, often at base camp.

Trekking in Nepal is one of the most delightful adventures the world has to offer. A happy coincidence of circumstances combines to make this so. The country itself, of course, is breath takingly dramatic, ranging from incredibly lush and deep river valleys to the rock and ice giants of the Himalayas. Relative political stability and British influence have led to more reliable logistics and support services than many third world mountain areas can boast. The intermingling of Hindu and Buddhist traditions makes for a very rich religious background. And finally the people - the Nepalese - have a spirit for life that draws you to them and makes Namaste (a customary greeting which translates I salute the God within you) part of your vocabulary for life.

The trip

The trip starts in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, at an elevation of 4400 feet. A melting pot of Hindu and Buddhist cultures, Kathmandu is a treasure house of temples, shrines and medieval pagodas.

Kathmandu possesses some very special qualities. Walking the streets in the early morning, you will see the city at worship - hundreds of people from all classes paying public homage to their chosen deity. Hindus make offerings of fruit, rice, flowers, and coins at shrines, and Buddhists prostrate themselves again and again in front of temples.

There are three major cities within the valley: Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. You will see Durbar Square and the Temple of the Living Goddess in Kathmandu; the five-storied Nyatapola Temple and exquisite wood carvings like the Peacock Window in medieval Bhaktapur; the Monkey Temple (Swayambhunath) on a hill overlooking Kathmandu; Bodhanath containing one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world; Pashupatinath Temple on the river Bagmati complete with burning ghats for Hindu cremations; the Tibetan refugee camp with its rug factory; and the remarkable temples of Patan.

After having spent almost two full days sightseeing and making final preparations for the trek, you will be ready to go. You can fly 40 minutes to Pokhara, or by overland 6-7 hours by bus. Take a taxi to beautiful Phewa Tal lake. You will stay at a lakeside hotel and have dinner at one of the excellent restaurants and spend one day to prepare yourself. Very early the next morning, you could transfer back to the Pokhara airport and fly at 6:30 AM to Jomsom and the start of your trek.

All the trek began at Jomsom, an 8,800' airstrip in the Kali Gandaki River Valley. As you flew over the region, the pilot sometimes made a special loop out over Mustang as a kind of preview for the trip to come. During the flight, they invited some of passengers to join them in the cockpit for photographs. For all, it was a thrilling experience as they circled between the great peaks of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri and then set down on the airstrip at the bottom of the deepest gorge in the world.

There are very few trekkers in Nepal during monsoon. Conventional wisdom holds that this is not "trekking season" because of the monsoon. In fact, this year, as in most years, the monsoon did not actually reach Nepal until late June or early July and even then the impact in Mustang is mild. Temperatures never dipped below 50oF at night and maximum day temperatures were about 80oF.

The most obvious weather condition to contend with was the wind which began to blow at about 10 AM and gained force by noon. By the afternoon it literally roared up the valley and blasted travelers and landscape with sand and grit. The wind is a daily, year-round phenomenon that shapes trees, landscapes, culture, architecture, agriculture and human behavior. Most of the trekkers usually hit the trail by 6:30 AM. Most nights the wind ceased beneath a starry sky by 8 PM.

People looked at the high peaks stretching north to south from the north side of Annapurna. They could observe the jagged rock pinnacles raking the ice particles from the clouds, which then diminished to wisps in the dryness over the Tibetan border. Even as pre-monsoon clouds dropped inches of rain each evening a mere forty miles away and illuminated snows to south with lightning flashes, rain seemed almost inconceivable for the duration of the trek. The dust on the trails seemed destined to deepen beneath predictable daily sunshine so intense that the Number 30 sun block had to be continuously reapplied.

The trip visited the communities of Kagbeni, Tangbe, Chuksang, Chele, Samar, Geling, Ghemi, Tsarang, Samdruling, Trakmar, Gyakmar, Lo Manthang and other smaller outposts. A detailed description of each destination's unique features, gompas, and environment are beyond this brief review. Each day of trekking wound along the mountains through valleys and river bed paths. Along the way you will pass small villages hidden in deep gorges, a huge sacred cave, and hundreds of ancient dwelling caves rendered inaccessible by hundreds of years of erosion.

You will also interacted with semi-nomadic herdsmen and traders in high camps. Trekking involved crossing passes, traversing mountains, and following the 11,000-12,000 foot contour of the Tibetan Plateau with occasional abrupt descents and ascents to cross a watercourse. Your maximum elevation will be about 13,600' during an optional hike up into a yak pasture. This is not really a high-altitude trip, though the occasional steepness of narrow trails demands focus and stamina. At times, wind gusts and grit blasts added to the physical challenge of completing the afternoon's hike.

After trekking for three or four hours you would come to a chorten or arch of prayer flags marking the entrance to a village. Built compactly as a maze of wind blocking walls, flat roofed, multi tiered houses and narrow walkways, each village was surrounded by irrigated fields which were emerald green with ripening barley. Inevitably, we would experience a transformation from the dry, windy harshness of the environment, to a convivial hospitality delivered in closed courtyards and elevated tea rooms.

Visiting these villages with a knowledgeable guide, who knows the local people, added tremendous richness to the trip. Getting invited into homes, having the opportunity for conversations, and finding the lamas who are willing to reveal the important artifacts of the community required a leader who already had the trust and confidence of the local citizens.

Many people felt an enchantment of the daily cycles of sun, shadows, clouds, wind, and stars. A predawn quiet celebrated the sanctity of each morning. There was no mass media or news, nor was there a need or real desire for any. The news is written in the ripening barley and broadcast by flapping prayer flags and the bells of mules and horses carrying salt or cloth or medicinal herbs between Tibet and lowland Nepal.

Even with all the knowledge of our local contacts, every day was filled with unanswered mysteries. Who lived in the hundreds of caves above the current villages? What was life like in the days of the Yarlung Dynasty when many of the most ornate and unique gompas were built?

What happened to all the lamas who once populated the ruined monasteries? How many great Tibetan sheep and snow leopards still roam the high valleys above the villages? How much smuggling goes on over the Tibetan border just two hours from Lo Manthang?

You may not a group tending toward the metaphysical, but you are drawn into the mysteries of the bare, eroded landscapes with the vestiges of hermit caves. You have to reflect on the origin and meaning of the ceremonial piles of endangered wild sheep horns and the extraordinary fineness of 500 years old religious paintings revealed in the beams of our flashlights in monasteries.

You could afford to be meditative, appreciative and speculative if you are well-supported on the trip. No one suffered any digestive distress. The food was ample, tasty, and healthy. There were never less than six entrees at dinner and four at lunch.

Good guides always had ideas for side trips or extra cultural visits to absorb any extra time or energy we had. They would love and hoped to introduce you to the king and the charming Queen of Mustang. This would be an impressive experience for you. They would invited you to roam around the Royal Palace photographing what you wished and then agreed to join you in a group photo.

It is important for all participants to evaluate their available energy resources between the full day walks that began each day at 6:30 AM. Those who finished the day too tired would probably miss the Tibetan and Nepalese singing and dancing that took place many nights between 8:30 and 10 PM.

TRIP DIFFICULTY AND TRIP FORMAT

The trek is non-technical and suitable for anyone in good shape who likes to hike over mountain trails and camp out. You should be in good physical shape for this trip and feel comfortable hiking seven to twelve miles per day on a trail while carrying a daypack of about ten pounds.

The trek crosses many passes, the highest at about 12,950 feet, and should be considered moderately strenuous. The trek does not go to extremely high altitudes, most hiking is between 9,000 and 13,000 feet, but the dust and unrelenting afternoon winds can make the trek less pleasant than other Nepal treks. On some days altitude gains and losses of up to 2500 feet can be expected. At least one rest day is planned. Strengthen your knee muscles and prepare steep descents.

If you have the nice guide, who knew the area so intimately, he would confidently lead you off the main trail, even directly down a hillside, to reveal a view or ruin, that other trekkers would surely miss. At the same time, you would aware that without intimate knowledge of the landscape, on your own, you could just as easily wander down a hillside that steepened into a sheer rock face terminating thousands of feet below in the Gandaki River. This sense of navigating steep terrain, ancient dwelling sites, rare wildlife and recurring panoramic, snowy Himalayan views made every step interesting.

A program of cardiovascular conditioning such as running, swimming, biking or aerobics is essential, but try to supplement your exercise with hiking on steep hills or running up and down steps. The more you can condition by closely simulating the activities of trekking, the better off you will be. While the trip is rated as moderate, good conditioning is essential to your enjoyment of the trek.

Remember that Nepal has the latitude, so it will be warm at the lower elevations (shorts and T-shirt) while nights will be cool. Daytime temperatures will be in the 50's and 60's at the lower elevations and in the 40's to 50's at our highest elevations. Temperatures at night will in general be cool - mostly in the 30's and 40's with our highest camps having below freezing nighttime temperatures. Your sleeping bag should be rated to 20 degrees. Since we are in the rain shadow of the Himalayas, we can expect the weather to be generally sunny, although an occasional storm could occur. This is high desert country.

The pace on the trek will be leisurely and unregimented. You are encouraged to walk by yourself or in small groups. Take time to visit local houses and temples, share a cup of tea, with our porters and the locals in the occasional chiyaa (tea) houses. Pursue interests in photography, bird- watching and botany, and sample the culture of the area you are travelling through. This trip will emphasize cultural interaction with both your staff and local villagers. Most of the staff would have been many evenings and will be spent dancing, singing and drinking (if you wish) with them. You will quickly learn to love both the graceful and dervish-type dances of our Tamang porters.

Some guides, besides making sure they do not get lost, also pitch and take down the tents and are responsible for supervising the porters and evening camps. They will have one guide in front, one in the rear and, for full trips, one who float throughout the group. They will be under the direction of the head guide.

This is not a tour where everything can be planned in advance to run like clockwork. You probably won't experience exactly what is written in the daily itinerary. Often adjustments must be made in the field. I want you to participate in the trip with the clear understanding that things can go wrong. Adventure travel does involve certain risks both emotional and physical. One has to be flexible when travelling in Nepal and have a cheerful attitude.

CONSERVATION OBJECTIVES

Nepal's midlands were once covered with forests, but in the last thirty years over half the land has been cleared to provide fuel and more space to grow food for the rapidly expanding population. Because of the deforestation, erosion has taken its toll, and it has been said that Nepal's biggest export is the soil carried down its rivers to India each year. We will have an opportunity to observe this problem first-hand as well as to see sparsely populated areas where deforestation is not yet a problem.

Malaria, once the scourge of Nepal's subtropical lowlands, has been largely controlled. Thus, new agricultural opportunities have been created but at the expense of clearing vast tracts of hardwood forests. In a country where the per capita income is just below $200 it is hard to sell a responsible environmental ethic to a people whose first concern is the next meal. The government has, however, been able to set aside over 7 percent of its land area in more than a dozen national parks and preserves. For all, of the trek we will be in the most recent one, the 1000 square-mile Annapurna Conservation Area, which is administered by the King Mahendra Trust for Nature Conservation with the participation of local inhabitants. The charter of the King Mahendra Trust declares that its objective is "to demonstrate through various programs that the relationship between nature conservation and basic human requirements need not be antagonistic." A user fee imposed on tourists who visit the Annapurna Conservation Area goes directly to the villagers.

Besides observation of deforestation, over-grazing and pollution, you will also breathe clean air and trek through thick healthy forests. The people you will meet on the trek are, for the most part, feeding themselves without the use of herbicides and pesticides. We suggest that you look at the November 1988 issue of National Geographic magazine that has several articles on both Nepal and Tibet that deal with environmental issues. The December 1992 issue of National Geographic has an article on the Sherpas that is also worth reading.

The Nepalese people have a positive spirit and attitude. They are learning to cope with the twentieth century and to understand the mistakes and successes of the modern world. Your western viewpoint will force you to question some of what you see, while your experience in Nepal will be close enough to the land and people so that, if you are perceptive and wise, you will learn much beyond your formal western education.

If you go to Mustang, keep in mind a few tips. The best travel season is May to September, exactly when most Nepal Himalaya trekking comes to a halt. Bring a good flashlight for exploring the gompas. Bring a dust mask for the afternoon winds. Don't skimp on sunglasses, broad brimmed hat or sunscreen. Bring a good camera with a flash.

Lallura

address: P.O. Box - 480 Rani Pauwa. Pokhara. Nepal.

email: lura@cnet.wlink.com.np